When I heard that there was a place in Panama where you could see both the Pacific and Atlantic oceans, and besides Antarctica this is the only place to do it, I knew I had to see it. That point is at the top of Volcán Barú and while there are multiple ways to go up, the most economical option is doing the hike on your own.

The path is well-marked and straightforward so all in all, hiring a guide wouldn’t be of much assistance, besides providing company, which admittedly could be worth it. More on that later.

There are two ways to summit Barú, but the easiest is from the Boquete side. To make it to the top for sun rise, the hike starts slightly before midnight so you’ll reach the volcano’s peak as the sun rises.

I am NOT an experienced hiker, but at this point in my life I thought I was relatively in shape… I found this to be one of the most physically strenuous 10 hours of my life.

Good preparation is key to making the most out of this endeavor, so here is an exhaustive list of what to bring and what to expect.

What to expect

It’s a strenuous walk both up and down.

If you want to reach the peak by sunrise, you have to be in decent physical shape. The 13.5 km (27 km roundtrip) trail consists of ascents and descents on a variety of terrain.

We did around 4 hours of hiking at a moderate pace with a good 1.5 total hours of short breaks in between. I imagine some hikers could take fewer breaks. We made it to the base of the summit (where the campsite is located) just as light was peeking out from under the clouds, so we had to rush up so we wouldn’t miss the sunrise from the top.

If you tend to go a slower pace, consider leaving earlier than the scheduled midnight shuttle OR taking your time hiking during the day.

You’ll be hiking overnight, so get rest before.

For the overnight hike we made the mistake of not getting any sleep during the day, so we were effectively pulling an all-nighter to hike throughout the night. By the time we made the descent in the daylight, we were hallucinating. Get some sleep.

The weather can affect the experience.

The morning I did this, the clouds and fog were too thick to see the ocean on the Atlantic side. From speaking to dozens of others that did the hike, this is common and just one of those things that you can’t really predict for the early part of the day.

You definitely want to check the weather and make sure that there is no rain. It would be absolutely miserable to be at the summit in wet clothes.

What to bring

1. Good shoes and layers of clothes

Hiking boots are helpful but not necessary. In some parts the path is packed dirt and sometimes muddy; in others it is straight-up pieces of volcanic rock. This is okay going up, but on the way down it can be strenuous on the knees and very easy to lose balance on loose rocks. I was fine in a pair of Nike Frees.

About halfway up you’ll feel the temperature cool significantly, and at the summit it will drop below freezing. Warm clothes are essential and you’ll definitely want to bring something to cover your hands and ears to protect against the summit’s cold wind.

Traveling in Central America, chances are you won’t have many cold weather clothes. I went to one of the secondhand shops in town to buy a down vest and fleece sweater to layer over and under my warmest clothes. You may try checking first with your accommodations or other travelers that have made the climb to see if they have any gear that they can lend out or are leaving behind, as we did.

2. Snacks & refreshments

You’ll want to have plenty of carbs, protein and water before and during your hike. Bring at least two liters of water.

The climb is long and dark and I found myself sometimes eating out of boredom.

3. At least $15 USD cash

As of June 2017, Hostel Mamallena Boquete on the main square in town arranges a shared shuttle for $5 USD to the base of Volcán Barú National Park. There is a $5 national park access fee collected on the way out.

You’ll also want some cash to catch the colectivo minibus back to Boquete town. We however were so exhausted that we asked for the park ranger to help us call a taxi back.

4. A light source

The path, while moonlit, can be pitch black for many parts of the 5+ hour hike up. Buy a flashlight or headlight for cheap at the Boquete flea market if you don’t want to use your phone battery. If you’re walking as a group, one light should be suffice.

5. Company and/or entertainment

This is a long hike. You could absolutely do it solo, but I found having company to be a good motivator. Still, after the first few hours we ran out of things to talk about. There’s not much to see – it’s dark – so some good tunes or podcasts will help you get through the rest.

6. A good camera

It’s opportunities like these that made me regret relying on my phone camera. No phone can capture the beauty of a sunrise or a sunset. Suffice to say, it’s made for a lot of “yeah haha you had to be there” moments.

The cold and wind at the summit actually made my iPhone 6 freeze and it shut down after a few minutes. Imagine hiking for hours, seeing the sun rise from under the clouds, having your breath taken away, and not being able to take pictures! That’s a cold world.

Conclusion

From the strenuous walk to the beautiful views, this experience took my breath way in more ways than one. I was deliriously tired by the end, and slept the whole day after. I felt (and still feel) like a champ for pushing myself to do this.

Have you climbed Volcán Barú? Are you interested in doing this strenuous hike overnight? Let me know in the comments!