Where to stay, eat, and drink in Mexico City: a neighborhood guide

Mexico City is a sprawling metro with a population close to 9 million people, so staying centrally helps you get into the middle of the action. Read this overview of popular (tourist) neighborhoods for food recommendations, and the best places to stay at every price point.

Centro Historico

Between the beautiful architecture, shopping, museums, and attractions like the Zócalo and Catedral, there’s a neverending supply of things to do in Centro. It doesn’t even feel particularly touristy.

The location, however, can make you feel removed from many of the other things to do in Mexico City. The area is the best for budget travelers and backpackers but may be less relaxing for couples and families.

Where to stay

Where to eat

  • Finca Don Porfirio at the top of a department store is where you can sip coffee a terrace overlooking the Palacio de Bellas Artes and square. Find a spot to watch the sunset.
  • Cafe El Popular serves typical hearty dishes in a throwback diner.
  • Balcón del Zocalo is contemporary with views over the Zócalo

Roma Norte

Roma Norte, hip and known for being the gentrified area. Indeed, trendy coffee shops, cocktail bars, and some of the best restaurants in the city are located in the tree-lined streets of Roma Norte.

Where to stay

Where to eat

  • Madre Cafe for brunch in a lush setting. Visit the chic rooftop as it opens in the evening
  • Sartoria for amazing pastas. Try the smoked cacio e pepe
  • Licorería Limantour for signature cocktails with great service in a lively setting of if you’re in the dancing mood, Departamento for packed floors and a vibey rooftop
  • Baveno or Libertario Coffee Roasts are great places to work and also serve hearty food, which I just love. I get hungry!

Condesa / Hippodromo

Roma Norte and Condesa are known as the neighborhoods where there’s more gringos that locals. Look for greenery when staying in this tree-lined neighborhood with trendy, farm-to-table restaurants and sensible shops. From here you can easily walk over to the Parque Chapultepec.

Where to stay

Where to eat

  • Lardo for brunch in a verdant cafe
  • La Bodegita del Medio if you’re craving homestyle Cuban food in a cool environment.
  • Contramar for the signature whole fish smothered in house green and red sauces.

Colonia Cuahtemoc

Colonia Cuahtemoc is the neighborhood just above the western end of Avenida Paseo de la Reforma, the avenue that was formerly used by Emperor Maximilian I of Habsburg to get from Chapultepec Castle to the National Palace.

What it may lack in neighborhood charm, it makes up for its central location near the park and access to public transportation. You’ll find more streamlined stays in this area with large hotel chains – but not so many options for budget travelers.

Where to stay

  • $ VIVE MX for private, modern rooms
  • $$ Casa Emelia is painfully stylish, while MX Suites gives you room to spread out
  • $$$ Volga is a design hotel with sleek rooms and suites, while Sofitel Reforma has its signature swanky style with city views from every room. And if you’re ready to splurge, the The Ritz-Carlton has direct views to both Chapultepec Park and Paseo de la Reforma

Juarez

Just north of Roma Norte, Colonia Juárez and the Zona Rosa are home to trendy restaurants, bars, and concept stores.

Where to stay

  • $ Hostal Juárez provides spacious, modern dorms and private rooms, plus an airy coworking space
  • $$ Casa Prim Boutique is modern but simple with an excellent breakfast
  • $$$ Hotel Geneve bursts with character and history, though with some dated rooms so spring for the suite if you can

What to eat

  • Get breakfast at chic Cafe Nin or Bagels Lepu for hearty bagel sandwiches
  • Slip into Hanky Panky speakeasy by entering the refrigerator of a taco shop
  • Taverna for tapas in the cutest environment

Polanco

Polanco with its long boulevard and upscale stores is the glitzy neighborhood that recalls Miami or Beverly Hills. Here you’ll find many of Mexico City’s museums, fine dining, and luxury retail options.

Where to stay

Polanco is generally an expensive area to stay, with a mix of aparthotels with nice amenities and conversely boutique hotels that lack amenities.

What to eat

  • Quintonil and Pujol are champions of fine Mexican dining with two Michelin stars each.

Coyoacán

Bonus! This area is not really central CDMX; in fact it was the first capital of New Spain after their successful conquest. The local tribe here had allied with Cortes’ army against their oppressive Aztec rulers downtown.

Today, Coyoacán feels like a town-within-a-city, with charming historic homes and a cultural component: you can visit the home where Frida Kahlo and Diego Rivera lived, as well as where their friend Leon Trotsky was murdered.

Where to stay


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