Scams and generosity on the Luang Prabang slow boat

When choosing your next destination the day before, it’s not uncommon to run into hiccups. And when backpacking solo, the highs and lows that come with any type of traveling, come at you fast.

This is what happened to me crossing the Thailand-Laos border and taking the famed Mekong River slow boat to Luang Prabang. The 2-day trip is an ideal way to get between Northern Thailand to one of Laos’ most beautiful destinations and a UNESCO World Heritage site.

I was up to the last minute taking an early bus from Chiang Rai, hailing a tuk-tuk to the border in Changkhong, and persisting through border control to receive my visa for Laos. On the other side, a lady dressed in beautiful traditional outfit – red flag #1 – awaited, telling me the boat that I was supposed to catch was leaving soon but she could call on my behalf. “They’re waiting for you!” she said, getting my payment and rushing me into the taxi.

I was the first one in the taxi and three locals were dropped off before me, making me realize the so-called rush was a lie. In Huay Xai, we drove through streets with cell phone stores blasting music (it was 11 am) and a clubhouses adorned with massive signs for the Communist Party where people were dancing (why not). Everyone else was dropped off before we reached the dock.

I was one of the last people to arrive and the boat looked pretty full. The driver handed me the ticket with face value on it, the equivalent of $14 less than what I was charged. A service fee from the lady.

It was a small price to pay for not arranging the taxi myself, and at least I had made it to the boat.

But it still stung, and walking down the main aisle of the boat looking for a free seat got to be agonizing. It was like a walk of shame back up to sit in the cargo hold. Here it was mainly the locals spread out.

Tired from the journey, I motioned for a man to move one of his grocery bags so I could sit. The others laughed. They were having a good time but I was exhausted.

After about fifteen minutes, the boat left the dock. I offered the lady next to me cookies I had picked up at 7-Eleven.

Just past noon, the locals took out what appeared to be a large basket and turned it upside down: a makeshift table. From their stash they pulled out plastic bags of different foods: seasoned (pickled?) greens, small fish, a glass noodle dish with minced meat, a couple of meat jerkies, and blocks and blocks of sticky rice.

As I watched the scene unfold, the man that had moved his bags for me beckoned me to join them. These were all the food you would see at the local markets so I was intrigued. I nodded and smiled to the group as I joined their circle to break in this case rice.

Less than an hour before, I had like 100 tourists staring at me as I asked if I could sit next to them like Forrest Gump on the school bus. I was the only tourist that had been welcomed to lunch. These people were my Jenny.

During the meal they would periodically portion out food for me and encourage me to eat more rice. The mystery jerkies wouldn’t have been my first pick, but it was good to try. Thankful couldn’t begin to describe what I felt sharing their food.

After a short break, around 2 pm, it was time for round two with fried fish, tiny crabs, and more sticky rice. We took turns buying bottles of Beerlao at the bar to reciprocate the generosity. When we reached their stop, they waved goodbye to me as they undocked with all of their cargo. The boat continued along.

Docking for the night at Pakbeng.

Traveling alone can be daunting. You’re out of your comfort zone and situations arise that make you lose trust in people, at least temporarily. At separate times in separate countries I’ve been scammed out of $5, $10, $100. But then again you’ll always witness the kindness of others, often when you least expect it, and that’s what makes your journey special.

The takeaway here? Sitting in the front with the cargo actually allows you to stretch out and meet other folks on the long journey. Always bring snacks for long trips; you never know who’s hungry! I’m not sure I would have been invited to eat with them, and invited again, had I not offered a simple 7-Eleven cookie. Food brings people together.


KRISTEN.WORLD


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