When visiting Managua, residents will still tell you they are recovering from an earthquake in 1972. When asked why it hasn’t been rebuilt, they shrug and say, “no money”, which belies an uncomfortable truth that prosperity seems far out of research.

There is no better way to understand the country than by observing what is, and isn’t, going on in the capital. Before you’re on your way to volcanoes, lakes, and islands, see history for yourself.

1. Start with Plaza Nicaragua on the lake.

Our day centers on attractions around the malecón, the waterfront area on Lake Managua (Xolotlan), so get a taxi to head to the Plaza Nicaragua. Taxis are shared which makes it cheap this way, but as always negotiate a price beforehand and carry exact change.

Most attractions are located around here, and you’ll find statues of Simón Bolívar, father of Latin America, and Augusto César Sandino, the revolutionary leader killed in 1934 that inspired the Sandinista revolutionary movement later on. There’s also the nationally revered poet Rubén Darío, vanguard of the Spanish Modernist literary movement.

Nicaragua seems to especially illuminate figures as heroes, even up to today. If you had taken the Avenida Bolivar to the plaza, you would also have even seen the Venezuelan leader Hugo Chavez exalted for his support of the current political party.

Through the city you’ll pass electric “Trees of Life”, a project by Rosario Murillo that are intended to show the prosperity led by her and her husband Daniel Ortega’s party, the Sandinista National Liberation Front (FSLN).

The cost of each of the 40-foot-tall trees has yet to be shared with the public.

2. Head to the Plaza de la Revolución and visit the Palacio Nacional de Cultura.

Unlike those of other former colonial cities, this plaza is a quiet square surrounded by park spaces and government buildings.

It can feel quite empty but you may chance across a vendor selling raspados, which is shaved ice covered in syrup and dulce de leche. Wetwipes recommended!

Nothing illustrates neglect like a condemned cathedral in a Catholic country; the Catedral de Santiago also known as the Old Church of Managua was constructed in the 1920s, damaged in the 1972 earthquake and never repaired.

Admire the outside and continue on to the Palacio Nacional de Cultura, housing a national museum and gallery. The entrance fee includes a guided tour through exhibits on political and revolutionary art (which I found to be exceptional), geological information on the legendary lakes and volcanoes of Nicaragua, and displays on national traditions such as El Güegüense.

3. Get a glimpse of the past on Paseo Xolotlan.

Paseo Xolotlan offers a nice stroll or bite along the malecón. While there’s some kid-themed amusement parks, you’ll also find a more esoteric experience in viewing model replicas of the beautiful cathedrals you’ll find across Nicaragua’s cities.

There’s also a section depicting the city of Managua of the past. It’s in a way bittersweet realizing that people will never be able to experience that again.

4. Attend a show at the Rubén Darío National Theater.

Wander over to the Teatro Nacional Rubén Darío, the conspicuously modern building nearby where performances and events are held.

To attend a show, stop by the taquilla (ticket booth) in the afternoon or check their Facebook page in advance for show information. You can also visit a small museum dedicated to the author in – you guessed it – a replica of his house.

5. Watch the sunset from Puerto Salvador Allende.

Walk past the Plaza Nicaragua on the malecón and you’ll reach Puerto Salvador Allende, a lakeside area repurposed for family-friendly activities and entertainment.

The best way to end your day in Managua is catching happy hour on a sightseeing boat tour around the lake (check the Momotombito schedule). Otherwise grab a seat and enjoy the sunset over salpichón and a cold Toña beer.

Conclusion

It’s easy to spend an afternoon enjoying the city center before going onto Nicaragua’s natural wonders. In a country where revolution is normal, the city leads you to ponder where it has gone.

Tips

• Airport taxis are a flat $20 USD, but you can save money by exiting the airport and catching one from the street. I don’t recommend taking the bus from the airport.
• Staying for the night? Try Element Boutique or the established InterContinental Managua.
• If you’re continuing onward by bus or public shuttle, it’s best to base yourself in an area around the Metrocentro Mall or UCA Station. You can leave your bags for the day at Manyaku Hostel.