Sicily feels different from mainland Italy, and it’s hard to put a finger on why. Perhaps it’s because Sicily was a historic crossroads between historic civilizations, from the Greeks to the Moors to the Normans, who came and went but left their imprints.

Towering cathedrals nestled in breadbasket regions. Decorative art based on ill-fated romance and artichokes. Majestic ruins overlooking glittering Mediterranean waters.

There’s too much to see, eat, and do in just 10 days, so this itinerary focuses on eastern side of the island. We start in Palermo and fly out of the second-largest city, Catania, traveling along the coast, visiting beautiful beaches, and wandering around Baroque towns along the way.

This trip happens to cover almost everything you saw in season 2 of HBO’s White Lotus (besides the drama), so take the week off and buckle up!

Palermo

1 night

The third-largest city in all of Italy, Palermo is the vibrant, modern-day administrative capital that was once the historical seat of power through its occupation by different empires.

You can find many cultural heritage sites, including the tomb of the Norman King Roger II at Cattedrale di Palermo. The impressive structure mixes Neoclassical and Gothic styles. Make sure to get tickets to the rooftop (narrow stairs warning) for views of the belltower.

If you’re feeling hungry, head to Bar Marocco to get a snack. Try their amazing arancini, a signature Sicilian snack that stuffs meat or other fillings in a fried rice ball.

Then walk over to Quattro Canti, which bisects two major streets of the historical center including Via Maqueda full of shops, bars, and restaurants.

Since you only have a day here, doing a walking tour for a few hours will cover both the above sights and more. The No Mafia tour is a unique way to learn about recent history, but you can get tailored information and stay flexible with private tours with tourswithlocals.com.

During the evening, you may check the schedule at the Teatro Massimo opera house to see if there are any performances during your stay. However, Italy at sundown and nighttime has a special buzz, so grab a negroni, wander around, and enjoy!

You’ll enjoy aperitivo, which typically refers to the Italian happy hour tradition of complimentary snacks are served alongside your drink order. For a lowkey bar this could be simple like chips and olives, but nicer establishments may serve dishes more akin to hors d’oeuvres.

For dinner, Ristorante La Galleria is a casual option to try fabulous pasta and wine. Then head to La Vucciria for a lively night out in the old center.

Stay at anything central – the old town will put you proximity to everything. Historic buildings house charming hotels and guesthouses and artistic touches. Great options for comfort include Sui tetti di Balarm and Palazzo Natoli for modern opulence. Our stay at Palazzo Sovrana is a lovely choice with contemporary rooms directly facing the opera house.

Visit the medieval town of Monreale to see the stunning cathedral on your way out of Palermo to Cefalù.

Cefalu

1 night

Cefalù is a charming seaside town popular due to its proximity to Palermo, accessible by train ride or just an hour’s drive.

The historical center can be explored in a couple of hours by first starting by the beach and making your way up to the Cefalù Cathedral, then looping back down to the waterfront. You’ll pass restaurants, shops, and even an ancient bathhouse.

Enjoy the sunset from the beach, the marina, or restaurant terraces like the one at Enoteca le Petit Tourneau – an excellent wine bar. Plan for dinner by making reservations at Locanda del Marinaio, an understated restaurant with impeccable service and seafood.

Stay somewhere along the beach, like the well-appointed Abelia Sea Suites, so you can stroll along the waterfront to and from the historical center. It also allows easier access to parking. There’s also many nice options in the surrounding hills that offer stunning views of the old town.

Taormina

2 nights

Taormina’s dramatic beauty has captured the imagination of many luminaries who then featured it in their work, the most recent being Mike White HBO’s White Lotus, which filmed at the Four Seasons San Domenico Palace.

The drive from Cefalù is 3 hours long, but you can break up the scenic, windy drive by making pit stops along the way. Stop for a seafood lunch at Ristorante la Risacca in Patti and then continue onto the Basilica Santuario Maria del Tindari. An alternative route will take you by the fortified city of Montalbano, impressive from a distance and charming inside.

Old Taormina is set in the side of a mountain and because of this, many locations you come across will have magical views of the Mount Etna volcano. There’s one main pedestrian road lined with touristy restaurants and shops, ending at the ancient Greek theater Teatro Antico di Taormina.

While the town is beautiful, most of the action lies elsewhere. Below the town at sea level is Isola Bella, an islet in a rocky cove (bring water shoes) where you can rent chairs from the local vendors, do water activities like SUP and wind surfing. Try taking the walking path from Taormina down to the beach, and on your return you can also use the Funivia Mazzaro Taormina gondola service. If you haven’t yet eaten, stop at Trattoria Il Barcaiolo .

Stay in town to get the best views, although note Taormina is rather difficult to navigate while driving, and you should ensure you have parking plans prior to arrival. The Grand Hotel Timeo is a storied option with gorgeous landscaping continuing all the way down to the famed gardens, Villa Comunale di Taormina. With such stunning vistas from the parks, plazas, and eateries in town, I wouldn’t stress if your room doesn’t have a view.

Visit Mount Etna through an organized tour that combines tasting of local food and wine from grapes cultivated in the rich volcanic soil.

If you want to do tastings on your own, Gambino Vini is one of the main options, while Benanti Viticoltori has multiple locations. Cantine Murgo 1860 serves fabulous sparkling wines. Advanced reservations are recommended to ensure they can accommodate you.

Siracusa (Ortigia)

2 nights

Sicily is known as a historic crossroads between major historical powers, including the Greeks, Romans, Moors, Normans, and more. Connected to the mainland by just two bridges, Ortigia is full of delightful, winding streets full of beautiful fountains and piazzas to relax.

Stay a relaxing two nights in Ortigia, making sure to check out the compact but lively Mercato di Ortigia (closed Sundays) and experience the masterful sandwiches at Caseificio Borderi.

The Temple of Apollo located closeby is where you can find aretusas, or tuk-tuks, that can shuttle you anywhere from 30 minutes to 3 hours. But if you can it’s better to walk in Oritigia, so follow the main thoroughfare to the Piazza Archimede with its Fontana di Diana, and continue on to Piazza Duomo surrounded by majestic palazzos and buildings like the Syracuse Cathedral.

Continue on to the papyrus-fringed Fonte Aretusa spring and garden for a serene view next to the seafront. Follow the boardwalk until it ends at Castello Maniace, Ortigia’s strategically placed military fort dating back to the 13th century.

Stay at one of the many fantastic B&B options that offer much higher quality for the price than hotels. For old-school opulence, Ortea Palace is well-located near the entrance of the island and was a favorite of historical figures like dictator Mussolini.

Visit the rest of Siracusa outside of Ortigia! Outside the island is the Church of Santa Lucia al Sepolcro which contains a Carvaggio mural and catacombs that claim to be outside of Rome the largest you can visit. You can also spend a couple of hours visiting the Neapolis, a sprawling archaeological site containing the Tomb of Archimedes plus a Greek theater where you can catch classic plays and performances in the summer season and select dates.

Noto, Modica, and Ragusa

2-3 nights

The eight Baroque cities of the Val di Noto were designated a UNESCO Heritage Site almost purely for their style. Built following a devastating earthquake in 1693, it’s a cultural and gastronomic destination today in a unique setting.

Ragusa

One of the must-do cities is Ragusa Ibla, the historical part of Ragusa with narrow, terraced streets. It’s a rather car-unfriendly town so if you have a car, it’s essential to plan your parking in advance. Ragusa is known for its fine dining and craftsmanship; visit the workshop of Cinabro Carrettieri to admire the art and unique ceramics.

Ragusa climbs upward. Admire the architecture from a viewpoint near the Palazzo Cosentini, then continue up the stairs past churches and palazzos until you reach the Chiesa di Santa Lucia for more panoramic views.

Try I Banchi for everything from the bakery to tasting menus, or dinner at its two Michelin-star relative Duomo Restaurante.

Modica

Another Baroque city to visit is Modica, famous for its local chocolate industry and abundances of churches. You might also try seeing the sights via a 45-minute ride on the Trenino Barocco Modica , which provides an audio tour in both Italian and English. The train is also available in Ragusa, but it’s particularly useful here given the distance between some of the sites.

Make sure to visit Antica Dolceria Bonajuto, the oldest chocolate factory in Sicily where you buy chocolate and try the local treat mpanatigghi, a pastry filled with meat and chocolate. You can also join tasting tours when available.

Another favorite is the special affogato at Caffe dell’Arte covered in warm, thick chocolate.

Noto

Staying in the city of Noto gives you access to agritourism and an underrated coastal area nearby. Outside of town, local farms offer wine and olive oil tasting tours; you can relax surrounded by wildlife and even stay at farmstays located within the Vendicari Natural Reserve, such as Casette Marianeddi . I liked stopping at the produce stand at Tomato Doc in Pachino.

Nice beaches and swimming arounds can be found along the coast; head to Lido Beach Agua for a relaxing beach club experience. And don’t forget to visit Marzamemi, a cute fishing village where you can pick up local gourmet ingredients from Adelfio Conserve di Marzamemi or Campisi Conserve.

Having a car makes it just as easy to stay at a gorgeous country villa or farmstay as it is to town, so it may come down to where you plan to end your night.

• In the middle of town: Try Q92 Hotel in Noto or A.D. 1768 Boutique Hotel in Ragusa for boutique stays. Modica Boutique Hotel is modern and affordable.
• Country houses: Right outside of Noto is the luxurious Country House Villadorata. Kick back in airy rooms and the spa at Tenuto Olive Alive or for a farmstay, Relais Torre Marabino is a solid option in a 14th century fortress.

Most of the international flights out of Catania depart in the morning to make a stopover in larger airports. Should you want to stay an extra night in the Val di Noto, Catania Airport is an easy 45-minute drive from Noto and rental car dropoff is a short walk to the airport terminals.

Catania

1 night (optional)

Stay in Catania’s historic center which houses major sites such as the palace, theaters, and cathedrals. If you’re tired of sightseeing by now, you might just wander the Piazza Duomo, get fresh seafood from the Catania Fish Market, and do some last minute shipping on Via Etnea. Indulging is perhaps the truest way to enjoy Sicily, so make it count.

Your trip full of culture and food over consistent sea views has now come to an end. Sicily provides a new way to experience the Italy you know and love, with an ineffable twist. You’ll just have to experience it for yourself.

Tips for visiting Sicily

• Getting around: Renting a car allows the most flexibility to maximize what you see. If you don’t feel like driving, all locations on this trip are connected by Trenitalia regional trains and buses, and common day trips can be booked through tours. If you’re running late you can buy tickets directly from the conductor on the train.