Move over, Croatia. Albania should be on every traveler’s list for beaches nestled into a rugged Ionian coastline, but without the crowds—for now.

This 10-day Albania itinerary starts in the vibrant capital of Tirana, takes you on a boat trip to a hike through idyllic mountains, and ends at the Albanian Riviera for some proper beach relaxation.

Instead of returning to Tirana, you can then fly out of Corfu, Greece. (It’s also not a terrible place to extend your trip if you have the time.)

Tirana

2 nights

Tirana is Albania’s energetic capital city filled to the brim with history and culture. Depending on what time of the day your flight arrives, you may only need to spend one night here. And for that, you should experience some of its nightlife.

Spend a day visiting the modern city center and historical sites. Albania’s Communist-era dictatorship was not so long ago, so visiting BunkArt2 gives you a glimpse into a horrific past and an appreciation for its present.

Another way to explore the city’s history is by taking a guided walking tour. I recommend going on a private or small group tour for the best experience.

Pazari i Ri is a city market where you can buy everything from produce and handicrafts to looseleaf tobacco and secondhand watches. If you’re looking for lunch, this is a great place to eat Balkan cuisine.

For a sunset drink, View Lounge at the swanky Plaza Hotel provides the best panoramic views of the city. By night, the trendy Blloku neighborhood beckons with its lively bar scene. Grab a beer or try the cocktails at Radio Bar Tirana.

Stay at the opulent Xheko Imperial or the more modern Plaza Hotel for a luxurious start to the trip. Otherwise you’ll have no problem finding a range of accommodations at every budget in Albania.

Shkodër

1 night

Next stop, Shkodër. Just under two hours’ drive from Tirana, you’ll stay here before making your overnight trip to the Albanian Alps.

Pack an overnight bag that you can hike with, and don’t forgot to stock up on snacks and drinks—there’s no supermarkets once you get to the mountains. You’ll leave your main luggage at your accommodation, most of which are accustomed to helping arrange transport to the Lake Shkodër ferry in the morning.

Spend an afternoon taking a stroll along Kole Idromeno Street, the pedestrian promenade lined with 19th century buildings. You can stop by the Marubi National Museum of Photography to view curated photos depicting the region’s heritage.

Just outside of the city is the Ottoman Mesi Bridge and Rozafa Castle, a glimpse to centuries past with great views and a small cafe.

Top off your night with traditional dinner and folk music at Hotel Tradita Geg & Tosk, the historical building dates back to 1697.

Stay at comfortable traditional rooms at the hotel for the night, or Çoçja Boutique Hotel is an elegant alternative in a great location.

Valbonë & Theth

2 nights

Early next morning, you’ll check out and take the shuttle transport to where you’ll catch the lake ferry to Fierze before heading to Valbonë, where the trailhead for the hike to Theth is located.

You can find more information on the legs of this voyage, as well as information to book transport to and within the mountains here.

You’ll be staying your first night in the Valbonë Valley wilderness, so spend the afternoon sharing the walking paths with farm and wild animals.

Stay at Guesthouse Gezim Selimaj which serves a hearty dinner and breakfast in the garden. Another relaxing option is Hotel Oda N’Bjeshke , providing stunning views from each of the modern, clean rooms.

Remember to request dropoff in the morning to the Thethi trailhead if you’re not within walking distance. After all, you’ll want to save your energy for the day hike, which will take around 5 hours at a steady pace with breaks. If you depart early in the morning, you can reach Theth by mid-afternoon.

The trail is straightforward and after a tough initial scramble, you’ll get a nicely-timed stop with a charming little coffee house. Take your time and make sure to stop for rests, take pictures, and appreciate the scenery along the way.

You can do this route the other way around (from Theth to Valbonë), however, I recommend going this direction because the ascent this way is more scenic.

In Theth you’ll find a small village, so take your time walking around and exploring the scenery. With the extra time you can arrange transportation to hike to the Blue Eye of Theth.

If you want more information about the region, the surprisingly comprehensive Theth Visitor Center covers local nature, architecture and practices of the area. The much-photographed Church of Thethi nearby has a fascinating history since its 1892 construction.

Stay at Gurra Family Guesthouse, conveniently located in the with a luxurious shower. The type you want after a long day. You’ll find more restaurants, hotels, and even a convenience store (try the homemade raki!) in town, so you’ll have enough to do before nightfall.

The next day you can either return to Shkodër by shuttle or for more flexibility, hire a private driver.

Berat

1 night

The drive from the north to the south is the longest, passing back through Tirana. This makes the town of Berat, 3 hours from Shkodër, an ideal stop to break up the drive.

Known as “the city of a thousand windows”, referring to the buildings terraced into the hill, the Ottoman-era city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site with a 13th century castle and Byzantine churches. Wander through the winding streets, crossing the river to view Berat’s historical Catholic and Muslim sides.

Up the hill is Berat Castle where you can walk around the fortress (more like an inhabited town), then admire the art collection at the Onufri Iconography Museum.

Stay at Hotel Colombo or Hotel Plaza on the edge of the old town to make it easier to get in and out for this quick visit.

As with most historic cities it can be a pain to get to the charming accommodations in the middle of the center. The beautiful Hotel Onufri, however, offers a parking lot.

Dhermi

1 night

A couple more hours’ drive and you’re on the Ionian coastline, which draws more and more crowds each year. You have a few options for beach towns but Dhermi is a good one, perfectly-sized with a long beachfront promenade lined with trendy hotels, restaurants, and beach bars.

Most beaches are small pebble and rock, instead of fine sand, so water shoes are helpful but not necessary.

Whichever town you choose, it’s easy to get around by car or even by public transport. You’ll just have to usually walk up to the main road.

Gjipe Beach is about a 30 minutes’ walk from the street-level parking lot, which dissuades many would-be visitors. But it’s worth it, and you can get there in a more adventurous way with Dhermi Boat Tours. Tip: The boat ride can be bumpy, so make sure you protect anything you don’t want wet.

Stay at boutique hotels that let you lounge in style. If not Dhermi, there’s nice options in Himare, Jale, and Livadi Beach:

• Dhermi: La Brisa Boutique has a large beach area, plus a rooftop bar and pool
• Jale: Folie Marine Beach Hotel mixes relaxing resort vibes with a beach club
• Himare: The views from rooms Rea Boutique Hotel are special but you can also find great Airbnb options. During the summer you can check out the multiday Himara International Music Festival.

Sarande / Ksamil

2 nights

The trip winds down with Sarandë, the largest city in Southern Albania with a view right towards the island of Corfu. Sarandë is where you’ll catch the ferry for your connecting departure flight from Corfu.

So, you have the option stay here or venture south to Ksamil, a sleepy fishing village turned resort town. The water is ridiculously clear, perfect for enjoying water activities or just floating around.

In the high season there’ll always be a party, with beach bars surrounding the cove and a foam party held at Poda Boutique Hotel.

Stay at the modern Colosseum Hotel , comfortable while still located close to the action. For a quieter scene, head to the southern or western sides of Ksamil. Arameras Beach Resort is the perfect place with villas, an infinity pool, and a beach tucked away from the crowds.

The waters of Ksamil provide a magnificent backdrop no matter what you do here. Besides the beach you can visit Butrint National Archeological Park, a trove of ruins from the Roman, Greek, and Medieval occupants of the former city. A mussel boat excursion also departs closeby, while you can head to the lagoon and dine at the The Mussel House.

Have an extra day? Gjirokaster, another UNESCO town with a stunning castle, is worth the visit (although skippable if you visited Berat) and on the way back you can take a dip in the Blue Eye, a natural swimming pool with impossibly clear water.

Conclusion

This action-packed itinerary condenses the best of Albania into a memorable week. The beauty of Albania lies in its unspoiled nature and rough edges, so lace up your hiking boots, kick off your sandals at a secluded beach, and leave with a full belly.

Tips for traveling in Albania

• Renting a car: Roads are mostly in great condition and despite the reports of aggressive drivers (it’s true) it’s not hazardous, so make it a true road trip. I recommend VIP Cars which offers great prices on a “one-way rental” with flexibility to pick up in Tirana and drop off in Sarandë.
• Fun: You’ll encounter many car washes along the way! Albanians must like their cars clean.
• Public transportation: If you’re willing to cut some excursions out, these destinations are easily connected by public transportation or you can use tours to do longer day trips.
• Currency: Albania’s national currency is the Lek. Carry some cash, but most places accept credit cards.
• Language: In tourist areas you’ll have no problem getting around speaking English. But as always, knowing a few local phrases is polite and fun!