Move over, Croatia. Albania should be on every traveler’s list for the dramatic mountains and beach towns nestled into a rugged Ionian coastline.

This 10-day trip starts in the vibrant capital of Tirana, takes you on a trip through idyllic mountains, and ends at the Albanian Riviera for some proper beach relaxation. You can fly out of Corfu, Greece after an easy ferry – and it’s not a bad place to extend your trip if you have the time.

Tirana

2 nights

Tirana is Albania’s energetic capital city filled with history, art, and nightlife. Depending on what time of the day your flight arrives, you may only need to spend one night here.

The modern city center is walkable containing many cultural heritage sites. Explore the city’s fascinating past during a guided walking tour. To understand the brutality of the country’s communist era dictatorship, visit BunkArt2 for eye-opening exhibits housed in a former government bunker.

Eat lunch and browse the wares at Pazari i Ri, an outdoor market where you can buy everything from produce and handicrafts to looseleaf tobacco and secondhand watches. Watch the sunset at the park which is full of cafes. By night, trendy Blloku beckons with its lively bar scene. Grab a beer or try the cocktails at Radio Bar Tirana.

There’s a range of accommodations for every budget, but if you’re looking for luxury try the opulent Xheko Imperial or the more modern Plaza Hotel.

Shkodër

1 night

Next stop, Shkodër. Just under two hours’ drive from Tirana, you’ll stay here before making your trip to the Albanian Alps.

Pack an overnight bag that you can hike with, and don’t forgot to stock up on snacks and drinks—there’s no supermarkets once you get to the mountains. You’ll leave your main luggage at your accommodation, most of which are accustomed to helping arrange transport to the Lake Shkodër ferry in the morning.

Spend an afternoon taking a stroll along Kole Idromeno Street, the pedestrian promenade lined with 19th century buildings. Stop by the Marubi National Museum of Photography to view curated photos depicting regional heritage.

Just outside of the city is the Ottoman style Mesi Bridge and Rozafa Castle, a magnificent glimpse to the past with great views and a small cafe.

Top off your night with traditional dinner and folk music at Hotel Tradita Geg & Tosk, the historical building dates back to 1697. You can also stay at comfortable traditional rooms at the hotel for the night, or Çoçja Boutique Hotel is another option with elegant decor in a great location.

Valbonë & Theth

2 nights

Early next morning, you’ll check out and take the shuttle transport to where you’ll catch the lake ferry to Fierze before heading to Valbonë, where the trailhead for the hike to Theth is located.

You can find more information on the legs of this voyage, as well as information to book transport to and within the mountains here.

You’ll be staying your first night in the Valbonë Valley wilderness, so spend the afternoon sharing the walking paths with farm and wild animals. For ultimate relaxation, Guesthouse Gezim Selimaj serves a hearty dinner and breakfast in the garden. Hotel Oda N’Bjeshke provides stunning views from each of the modern, clean rooms.

Remember to request dropoff in the morning to the Thethi trailhead if you’re not within walking distance. You’ll want to save your energy for the day hike, which will take around 5 hours at a steady pace. If you depart early in the morning, you can reach Theth by mid-afternoon.

Take your time and make sure to stop to make rests, take pictures, and appreciate the scenery along the way. The trail is straightforward and after a tough initial scramble, you’ll get a nicely-timed stop with a charming little coffee house.

You can do this route the other way around (from Theth to Valbonë), however, I recommend going this direction because the ascent this way is more scenic.

In Theth you’ll find a small village, so take your time walking around and exploring the scenery. With the extra time you can arrange transportation to hike to the Blue Eye of Theth.

If you want more information about the region, the surprisingly comprehensive Theth Visitor Center covers local nature, architecture and practices of the area. The much-photographed Church of Thethi nearby has a fascinating history since its 1892 construction.

Stay at Gurra Family Guesthouse, conveniently located in the with a luxurious shower. The type you want after a long day. You’ll find more restaurants, hotels, and even a convenience store (try the homemade raki!) in town, so you’ll have enough to do before nightfall.

The next day you can return by shuttle or for more flexibility, hire a private driver.

Berat

1 night

The drive from the north to the south is the longest, passing back through Tirana. This makes the town of Berat an ideal stop for a night to break up the drive.

Berat is known as “the city of a thousand windows”, referring to the buildings terraced into the hill. The Ottoman-era city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site with a 13th century castle and Byzantine churches. Wander through the winding streets, crossing the river to view the different historical Catholic and Muslim sides.

Head up the hill to Berat Castle and walk around the fortress. While you’re up here, you can check out the art collection at the Onufri Iconography Museum.

Staying at Hotel Colombo or Hotel Plaza on the edge of the old town make it easier to get in and out for this quick visit. As with most historic cities it can be a pain to get to the charming accommodations in the middle of the center. The beautiful Hotel Onufri, however, offers a parking lot.

Dhermi

1 night

A couple more hours’ drive and you’re on the Ionian coastline, which draws more and more crowds each year. You have a few options for beach towns but Dhermi is a good one, perfectly-sized with a long beachfront promenade lined with trendy hotels, restaurants, and beach bars. Many beaches are small pebble and rock instead of fine sand, so water shoes are helpful but not necessary.

Spend a couple of days hopping around the beaches. It’s easy to get around by car or even by public transport, you’ll just have to usually walk up to the main road.

Gjipe Beach is about a 30 minutes’ walk from the parking lot which dissuades many would-be visitors. A more adventurous way to get there is by boat which you can reserve with Dhermi Boat Tours. The ride can be bumpy, so just make sure you protect anything you don’t want wet.

Stay at the boutique hotels before they become pricey and overcrowded like Albania’s neighbors. If not Dhermi, check out Himare, Jale, or Livadi Beach.

• Dhermi: La Brisa Boutique has a large beach area, plus a rooftop bar and pool
• Jale: Folie Marine Beach Hotel mixes relaxing resort vibes with a beach club
• Himare: The views from rooms Rea Boutique Hotel are special but you can also find great Airbnb options. During the summer you can check out the multiday Himara International Music Festival.

Sarande / Ksamil

2 nights

The itinerary winds down with Sarandë, the largest city in Southern Albania with a view right towards the island Corfu. Sarandë is where you’ll catch the ferry for your connecting departure flight from Corfu. So, you have the option stay here or venture half an hour south to Ksamil, a sleepy fishing village turned resort town. The water is ridiculously clear, perfect for enjoying water activities or just floating around.

In the high season there’ll always be a party here, with beach bars surrounding the cove and a foam party held at Poda Boutique Hotel. The modern Colosseum Hotel located closeby is comfortable and quiet.

My tip is to head to the southern or western sides of Ksamil for a quieter scene. Arameras Beach Resort is the perfect place with villas, an infinity pool, and a beach tucked away from the crowds.

The waters of Ksamil provide a magnificnet backdrop no matter what you do here. You can visit Butrint National Archeological Park, a trove of ruins from the Roman, Greek, and Medieval occupants of the former city. A mussel boat excursion departs closeby, while you can head to the lagoon to dine at the The Mussel House.

Have an extra day? Gjirokaster, another UNESCO town with a stunning castle, is worth the day trip and on the way back you can take a dip in the Blue Eye, a natural swimming pool with impossibly clear water.

This action-packed itinerary condenses the best of Albania into a memorable week. The beauty of Albania lies in its unspoiled nature and rough edges so lace up your hiking boots, kick off your sandals at a secluded beach, and leave with a belly of mussels.

Tips for traveling in Albania

• Renting a car: Roads are mostly in great condition and despite the reports of aggressive drivers (it’s true) it’s not hazardous, so make it a true road trip. I recommend VIP Cars which offers great prices on a “one-way rental” with flexibility to pick up in Tirana and drop off in Sarandë.
• Public transportation: If you’re willing to cut some excursions out, these destinations are easily connected by public transportation or you can use tours to do longer day trips.
• Fun: You’ll encounter many car washes along the way!
• Currency: Albania’s national currency is the Lek, but most places accept credit cards.