Travelers always rave about the volcanoes and lakes of Granada or the beaches of San Juan del Sur. Here’s a little love for León, which in my opinion represents the intellectual heart of the country with an important past as the birthplace of the Sandinista movement. Plus there’s a pretty stunning cathedral.

Getting in and out

León is a no-brainer for backpackers because it is the perfect stop for traveling onward from Nicaragua to El Salvador, Honduras or Guatemala. It’s only a couple hours from Managua.

Shared shuttles: The trip from León to Managua can easily be arranged through your accommodation. Bigfoot Hostel offers shared shuttles two time a day from Managua, and EasyRide shuttles include hotel pickup and dropoff.

Public transportation: You can take a chicken bus or an expreso (mini bus) from the Managua UCA station. Both options are cheap and lack comfort, but the ride is short enough that it’s manageable. The expreso won’t drop you off at the main street, so hail a taxi or take a rickshaw to take you into town.

Where to stay

The town’s colonial character is retained in mainly single-story buildings. Courtyards in the center aide wind drafting through the home. In your visit to León you’ll become very familiar with this architectural feature of these houses—it’s very likely that you’ll be staying, eating, or drinking in one!

Bunk beds at hostels are cheap but basic, often equipped with just fans. León is super hot so consider splurging on one with AC.

• $ Bigfoot Hostel has aircon dorms and organizes popular activites and shuttles.
• $$ Hotel Flor de Sarta for modern rooms and a pool
• $$$ The elegant Hotel la Perla is worth the extra money.

What to do

Volcano board down Cerro Negro

How many people can say that they’ve volcano boarded? This is one of Nicaragua’s most popular and unique activities.

After a bumpy hourlong ride from León, you climb 30-45 minutes up the volcano with a group and then wait your turn to slide down on a wooden board. The sides are crumbly and black, almost soft. Some people speed down at up to 50 mph while others (me!) go super slow.

Volcano Day is a locals-owned company providing multiple excursions during the day, and you can combine volcano boarding with sunset at the beach or other outdoor activities for a discount.

Visit the rooftop at Catedral de León

Out of León’s dozens of churches, this is the one not to be missed. Known simply as the Leon Cathedral, the Basílica de la Asunción de la Bienaventurada Virgen María sits on the main square in the heart of town and is unmissable in its bright, plaster white.

For a small fee you can walk around the rooftop which provides stunning 360 degree views of León and its surroundings. The ticket booth for roof access is located on the right side of the cathedral and you’ll see a small door on the side. Entry is allowed between 8 am-noon and 2 pm-4 pm.

Immerse yourself in Sandinista history

León was one of the center of the Sandinista movement in the 60s and 70s, which has a connection to anti-US revolutionary struggle in the early 20th century and legacy that continues today in Nicaragua’s complicated political climate.

This tips-based walking tour is an excellent introduction to the town’s history, providing context to the unmissable murals and public installations throughout town. Our guide was a student at UNAN, itself an institution of revolutionary action.

If you want to dig deeper, a visit to the Museo de la Revolucion is a must. You may even be lucky to have a guide who participated in the 1979 Sandinista revolution.

Learn about Ruben Dario, Nicaragua’s most famous poet

Of all the figures depicted in the many murals and dedications, one of them is not like the others. That is Rubén Darío, one of Nicaragua’s most beloved figures who grew up in the town.

You can find his statue in the Parque de las Poetas and visit the Rubén Darío Registry which houses exhibitions and original manuscripts in the poet’s childhood home. Lastly, and poetically, you can visit his resting place in the Catedral where he was also baptized.

Check out the beach at Las Peñitas

The beach is located a short 30 minutes ride from the city center! It’s a favorite with locals over the weekend. Buses leave from the bus stop at Mercadito de Sutiava but it’s more convenient and cost-effective if you can split a taxi between a few people.

Many hostels also offer a convenient shuttle. As of 2017, Bigfoot Hostel hosts a fun weekly beach party at Las Peñitas with transport from León included.

Watch the sunset and sunrise on Telica Volcano

Telica Volcano is an active volcano that takes about 3 hours each way to hike. The trail is simple and well-marked, so you can take a bus from León to the trailhead and do the hike yourself.

Volcano Day offers sunset and overnight camping tours that take care of some of the logistics.

See world-class art

Museo de Arte Fundacion Ortiz-Gurdian is an impressive private collection housed in a traditional colonial buildings. Rooms span art periods from medieval to modern, providing an easily-digestible commentary on art in a colonial context. The contemporary collection is equally impressive. Don’t miss the Picasso lithographs.

Entrance fee well worth the low cost and is donations-based on Sundays. Select explanations are provided in English.

Where to eat

Local food shines in León. Try the chancho con yuca, a popular dish in the region, or queso seco, the local cheese that resembles raw tofu but comes with a crumbly texture. Opinions are pretty polarized based on asking around. You can try it at places like:

• Bar el Mirador – A restaurant bar that sits above one of the busier pockets of León, the local basketball court, El Mirador provides one of the best places to people watch in town.
• Pan & Paz – A French bakery and probably one of the cutest cafes in little León! Come for the fresh baked breads, quiches, pastries, and good coffee.
• Asados El Pelibuey – Nicaragua loves a meat dish. El Pelibuey offers a selection of asados, a balanced plate of protein and rice, beans, plantains and a salad, plus a refresco for around $3.
• Comedor San Benito – A buffet (fritanga) with satisfying options for breakfast or lunch, Comedor San Benito is always full of locals.
• Ladies grilling on the street – The main square lights up during the evening as temperatures cool down. Follow the smell of the grill to one of the side streets off the square – look for the red tents, tables full of food and ladies waiting to grill your selection.